|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| I always like to start with the
graphics, it's the fun part! |
Kirbys Kustom Vinyl Graphics gives
the plane the bling it deserves! |
Pretty highend, these 3W Votecs! |
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
The plane sure is shiny! |
 |
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| Went with three Hitec 5945s on each
aileron and rocketcity style control
horns that you can get at
Don's Hobby Shop... also got some
more bling on there with the graphics
from
Kirbys Kustom Vinyl Graphics.
I just drill and tap for the rocketcity
style bolts... then use
ZAP thin CA to
harden the hard points even more... then
drill and tap again... then glue the
bolts in with
30min Zpoxy. |
Like I always talk about... gotta get
the setup right before you program. In
this case... exactly 50 degrees off of
each of three determined servo arm
center locations... left and right...
which makes the aileron go 4" up and
down. All three servo arms move exactly
50 degrees in each direction... in order
to make the aileron move 4" in either
direction. I adjusted the pushrod
lengths and the control horn heights
using a protractor until all three servo
arms were setup precisely. |
I glued in the elevator servo mounts and
the elevator control horns, as well. I
used
30min Zpoxy. All the gluing is
done. I just gotta mount the elevator
servos, setup the pull/pull cables...
and program all the servos. Then setup
the radio, then check everything over...
and it's RTF. At that point I will fly
the crapola out of the thing.
 |
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| Before I glued in the 3W servo mounts...
I put 7/16" balsa spacers underneath
them. This makes the servo 7/16" higher
than stock and allows for more servo arm
travel without running into the stab...
which, of course, equates to more
elevator throw, baby! |
I
finished mounting the elevator servos
and programmed them with the Hitec
programmer. |
Got the pull/pull setup done today. 3W
has these exit hole covers that you can
buy... I used one as an exit hole cover
and flipped one over and used it to
protect the wire where it has to wrap
around the end of the fuse. This is the
way 3W does it... I learned it from
them. |
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
I calc-ed the exit holes by drawing up a
1/2 scale plane on some poster board.
1/2 scale is easy to deal with, doesn't
take a big piece of paper, and gives
accurate results easily. |
Here's a look at the inside with the
custom bell crank. |
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| I mounted up the receiver, rudder
servos, rudder servo linkages, and
Emcotec RV LDO today... |
I used silicone in the mounting holes in
the Emcotec to keep the bolts from
rattling around... because the holes are
tapered for some reason. |
This kind of work is time consuming.
But, with the exception of programming
the rudder servos... I'm done! |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
| The house and I are wiped out totally...
it's 7:30am, stayed up all night, but
the plane... she is finally 100% RTF
including balancing the new prop.
Got a new trick for you experienced
programming guys. I always put the servo
arm on the servo and find its center and
mount the servo arm at center before I
start programming. I think everyone does
that, programming or not. So, anyway,
most of the time it goes slightly
farther one way than the other... due to
splines, etc... well now I make note of
which way it goes further than the other
way... and I put all servo arms on each
surface going a little further all in
the same direction. The result was that
after I programmed my first servo... I
used the final numbers as the first
attempt on all the other servos... which
got me real close on each first try...
which cut down on programming time. The
programmer is a blessing, but cutting
down on programming time is a blessing,
too. |
|
|
|
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
