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| Started on the wings. First thing I did
was remove the servos Jimmy put in
because he didn't put extensions on
them. Then I got the extensions and tape
ready to go. |
I'm using the new Hitec servo extensions
nowadays. Much better connectors and
workmanship than any extensions I've
used before. These extensions are very
nice! |
I use painter's tape on my connectors.
I've done pull tests and it will hold up
for what I need. It's easy, fast, light,
and won't come apart over time. Works
for me
the last few years. |
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| Jimmy yanked out the
string without using them to pull the extensions through.
That crazy kid! |
No worries, I taped a couple of 1/4-20
nuts on the end of the outside servo
extension and dropped it through. |
On the inside servo I used some long
hemo's... if you don't have long hemo's... get some. |
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| Again, we
used the new 3mm servo screws by
MicroFasteners. |
Jimmy said
the 3mm screws "felt like 1/4x20 on there, or something!" |
Some notes
on the servo and linkage install. |
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| The manual says to go low hole on the
inside control horn and middle hole on
the outside control horn. I went middle
hole on the inside control horn and top
hole on the outside control horn. No
biggie, I just wanted a little more
resolution and also more level push-rods
throughout the range of travel. |
Here's that level push-rod I was talking
about. Oh, and I forgot to mention
earlier... since this
servo/servo-arm combo is metal to
metal... we gotta keep it from coming
undone during flight. I use
Pacer Threadlocker
for this purpose. |
When you use a Philips head on
anything it means you need to apply an
inward/downward force in order not to
strip it out. Socket heads don't need
downward force to be threaded in or out.
So, I recommend getting some socket head
machine screws from
MicroFasteners. |
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Okay... got this wing ready for
programming. A few points to go over
here. If you set things up just the way
I did you'll get good servo resolution
for 4-1/2" of throw each way on the
aileron. But, if you set things up just
this way, and only use 3" of throw each
way (by using lower rates in your radio)
maximum... then you don't have max
resolution for that throw. Ultimately it
would be nice to set a plane up
precisely and all... but then fly it for
a week and decide on the max throw you
need for each surface. Then re-setup
your mechanical advantage and
programming for max resolution at that
throw. In other words... right now I'm
setup for 4-1/2" of aileron travel each
way. And, my resolution is max for me...
I'm at 52 degrees left and right on the
servo arm. If I find that I only need a
max of 3-1/2" of travel each way for
3D... then what am I going to do? Just
dummy it down in my radio? Then I don't
have the max resolution I could have.
The right thing to do would be to go
back and put on a shorter servo arm and
re-program. Instead of 52 degrees each
way for 4-1/2" travel each way... I'd
re-setup for 52 degrees each way for
3-1/2" each way. I have a feeling that
alot of people will like Aerowork's "high
rate" recommendation of 3-1/2". So that
might be a good place to start for alot
of people. It would be great if we could
always guess right on the first try.
And, at this point I usually have a
pretty good idea of what I want,
personally (all I can get ). NOTE:
After the maiden I can say that 4-1/2"
of aileron travel each way worked great
for me!
One other point... due to not having
adjustable height control horns other
than pre-drilled holes... I came out
with 52/52 degrees on the inboard servo
and 50/50 degrees on the outboard servo.
That ain't bad and is well within
reason. But, does show the advantage of
a totally adjustable height control
horn. Still, if things are looked over
in advance, like Aeroworks did with this
QB,
then pre-drilled control horns can be
plenty close enough... as is the case
here. |
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| Another picture showing how this is no ordinary ARF.
Some would question having a worker in
China glue in their hinges; wondering if they will hold
up. Well, when I was running the
extensions in the 2nd wing I noticed
large balsa blocks behind each hinge.
These hinges ain't goin' nowheres'.
Each and every hinge goes into a block
like that. |
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| I setup 60 degrees left and right of
center on the servo arm to get full
bevel to bevel deflection up and down on
the elevator. The geometry and angles
look great even at 60 degrees here, so
I'm going for all that resolution. |
Notice how the pushrod is parallel with
the servo body at full 60 degrees up and
full 60 degrees down... and it is also
basically perpendicular with the hinge
line. Most importantly it retains good
leverage angles in its geometry. |
I used
ZAP
Thin
CA on all control horn and all servo
screw holes. Fresh ZAP thin really
penetrates into the wood and hardens it
nicely. |
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| Also, from the side... where I try to
keep the pushrod from getting too far
away from parallel with the servo arm. I
don't want too much of an angle working
against the turning of the output shaft;
I don't want it prying on the output
shaft. The reason I have spent some time
considering all this the last few years
it because of the amount of throw I like
to fly with. Less throw; less to worry
about. More throw; more to consider. |
I should say too, that I would
not go
with a servo arm longer than 1-1/4" and
would not setup more than 45 degrees
of throw on the elevator up and down
with any other servo other than these
5955s. But with these I went with a
1-1/2" servo arm and over 50 degrees of
elevator travel in each direction. Set
this up the same way with a lesser servo
and it would likely flutter and fail. |
Mat came over today and we programmed
the aileron and elevator servos.
Here's a short video:
VIDEOHere's another video; this one to show the
finished up elevator servos in action:
VIDEO |
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| Had a
broken former; looks kicked in from the
bottom of the fuse. I cut this piece
of ply to double over it. |
I glued it on with some
ZAP
Medium
CA and it's nice and solid now! |
I'm pretty much building this thing
stock, tailwheel and all. NOTE:
That tire lasted two flights. |
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| I soldered up some extensions for the
elevators. Standard connector on one end
for the Smart-Fly Power Expander, and a
Dean's 1003 on the other end for the
elevator servo. |
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| I installed
the pull/pull rudder using the stock
setup. And, it was about as
easy as it could be. |
The non-pulling cable
doesn't become tight or loose... just a
real smooth rudder
setup. |
Of note are the pull/pull cables
included with the QB. They are
excellent; very heavy duty. |
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| I
used silver solder here. The solder flowed
in
one side and out the other... you
couldn't pry this arm off with a crow
bar. |
I trial fitted a muffler and the needles
were about 1/8" away, so I cut 3/8" off of
them and re-slotted them.
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I mounted up the throttle servo using a
3W bracket.
Although I should have put the servo on
the other side of the pushrod. :/ |
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| I achieved 125/125 ATVs (non programmed
servo) with this setup. |
I
had planned on going "up" with the carb
arm, and then just mounting the throttle
servo in a hole in the motor box. But,
there wasn't much room up there. |
I
used
ZAP
Medium
CA to glue on the 3W servo
bracket.
I also backed it up with some 4-40
ss bolts, ss washers, and
ss lock nuts from
MicroFasteners. |
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| I put those grade-8 full thread bolts to
use... and used
Pacer Threadlocker
for extra
security. |
One of the previous times
Mat came over he soldered some
DUBRO barbs
onto the tank tubes. |
I
finished getting the tank ready to install in the
plane. |
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| I used
DUBRO Large Tygon for the tank and
plane plumbing. |
Here's the tank setup using the
Fromeco "Tourniquet". |
Since the tank is above the fuel dot
location I went with a James Shelly dot. |
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| I put a stick in behind the light ply
that holds the fuel dot and switch to
beef it up. |
I covered the first former for grins. |
I later moved the ignition from this
location for a better range check. |
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| I don't know
about you guys, but I never had any luck
with gaskets. I just use RTV and
never have a leak. |
Aeroworks
provides a balsa template for the
engine baffling;
making it very easy to get this done. |
Here's a picture of how I did the exhaust cutout in the bottom of the
cowl. |
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| I used
Pacer Threadlocker
on the screws for the axle collars...
and then mounted up the wheel pants. |
I did take and dremel out about an 1/8"
all the way around the opening in the
pant that is for the tire. |
Here's the
Fromeco Badger Switch installed (for
the Smart-Fly Power Expander /
Receiver). |
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| I replaced the short
22 gage leads on the Badger switch with
long (actually custom length) 18 gage
leads with Dean's Ultra connectors
versus the standard R/C connectors that
were on the 22 gage wire leads. I went
18 gage because I had a long way to
go... even still I don't think our
planes need wire anywhere heavier than
18 gage. 18 gage around the batteries
and 22 gage everywhere else... I always
say... FWIW. |
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| I also soldered the wires pointing
inward instead of outward so they
wouldn't get in the way of the bolts. |
I mounted up the
Fromeco 4800 Pearless Battery, and
Fromeco Regulator. Also the
Smart-Fly Power Expander. |
I am using six channels,
so I used only the six buffered channels
on the
Smart-Fly Power Expander. |
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| I adjusted the
Fromeco Regulator
to its max of 6.3v with a handy/dandy
momentary switch that Jimmy made for me. |
Here's the
4"
TruTurn
gold anodized spinner. I really love the
looks of this spinner on this plane! |
I put the QB
together and weighed it... 28 lbs
even... all stock. NOTE: The plane
flew light and stable at this weight! |
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